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How To Care For Your Model Tank
by Victor Epand
Does this sound familiar? You get a model tank home and put it together. You then place it on a shelf for display. Then it sits and sits. It just gathers dust until you finally decide to push it into a box instead of giving it the care it deserves. With just a little bit of care you can keep your model looking great and worthy of keeping its place on the shelf for years to come. You can even pass it down to your children as they get old enough to appreciate the work that went into building it.
The work of cleaning it is not difficult. It is just something that you will have to remind yourself to do. It is best to begin by washing the parts of your model tank before you ever begin assembly. Keep them on the sprue so that they do not go missing. Place them in a container filled with lukewarm water and a little bit of dish soap and let them soak for awhile. This will help to remove the residue that can accumulate during the manufacturing process. If you get the water too hot you will run the risk of warping your parts which would require you to buy a new model. By removing the residue you will help to ensure that the paint adheres properly when you pain your tank.
Use a small brush to get into tight spots so that you don't miss any possible crevasses. Make sure that the brush you use is a soft bristled one so that you do not scratch the plastic itself. You should also try to make sure that you do not get any cement on the clear surfaces of your model such as window covers as well as stray bits of cement elsewhere.
Any leftover cement should be carefully removed with rubbing alcohol. Alcohol wipes are easy to handle and will work best if used carefully. After you have finished the assembly process and placed your tank in its place of honor you just have to clean it occasionally. Take a cloth that has been lightly dampened and wipe any surface dust from the model. A damp brush can be used for the hard to get places.
You might even consider using canned air to blow some of the dust from the model. If you do you should make sure that you secure any moving parts so that they are not damaged. You then should just use small bursts and not hold it for longer than necessary. The oils from your hands can actually damage the paint itself. With just a little care you will keep your model tank looking new for many years.
About the Author
Victor Epand is an expert consultant about model rockets, model tanks, and model spaceships. You will find the best shopping at these sites for model rockets, model tank care tips, and model spaceships.
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3 videos running time 00:21:00
The Boys anti-tank rifle was sometimes referred to as "Charlie the Bastard" due to its recoil. A comic, arrogant Hitler is shown riding a tank, confidently ridiculing his adversaries, but Canadian soldiers, using anti-tank rifles, firing from trees, haystacks, barnyards, and even a latrine, rout the Nazi tank corps and literally blow Hitler to Hell. He tumbles into the fiery inferno and begins spouting German gibberish to a comic devil, who informs the audience- "Adolph says it isn't fair. He's being oppressed. He says it's an outrage. Der Fuehrer says against your anti-tank rifles, he simply can't win."
The rest of the film is a detailed animated instructional film on the care and firing of the rifles. The Rifle, Anti-Tank, .55in, Boys commonly known as the "Boys (or, often and incorrectly,"Boyes") Anti-tank Rifle" was a British anti-tank rifle. There were two main types, an early model (MK I) which had a circular muzzle brake and T shaped bipod, and a later model (Mk II) that had a square muzzle brake and a V shaped bipod. There were also different cartridges, with a later one offering better penetration. He eponymous creator of this firearm was Captain Boys (the Assistant Superintendent of Design) who was a member of the British Small Arms Committee and a designer at the Royal Small Arms Factory, Enfield. It was initially called Stanchion but was renamed after H.C. Boys as a mark of respect when he died a few days before the rifle was approved for service in November 1937. A bolt action rifle fed from a five-shot magazine, the weapon was large and heavy with a bipod at the front and a separate grip below the padded butt. In order to combat the recoil caused by the large 0.55 inch (13.9 mm) round, the barrel was mounted on a slide, and a shock absorber was fitted to the bipod along with a muzzle brake on the barrel.
The weapon was effective to about 300 yards (280 m) as an anti-tank and anti-vehicle weapon. There were two main service loads used during the Second World War, the W Mark 1 (60 g AP at 747 m/s) and the W Mark 2 ammunition (47.6 g AP projectile at 884 m/s). Later in the conflict, but too late for service use, a much more effective high velocity round was developed, this fired a tungsten cored Armor-Piercing, Composite Rigid (APCR) design at 945 m/s. The W Mark 2 projectile was able to penetrate up to 3/4 inch (20 mm) of armor at 100 yards (~91 m). The armor plate inclined at 70° from the horizontal i.e. 20 degrees from the direct line angle of fire - the effective thickness being ~21.5 mm. Its effective range against unarmored targets (e.g. infantry), was much further. Although useful against the early tanks, the increases in vehicle armor during WW2 left it largely ineffective for anti-tank duties and it was replaced in service by the PIAT anti-tank weapon. It still saw some use against bunkers, machine gun nests, and lighter vehicles. In the Western Desert the large bullet could throw up splinters from rocks to cause casualties and it continued to be used in the Pacific theatre against Japanese tanks; the Japanese did not replace their older lightly armored tanks, spread out across the Pacific and South East Asia, with newer ones until later in the war. The weapon had been designed with these lighter tanks in mind.
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